The World of Gin
/Like many spirits that originated in Europe, Gin was first a medicinal elixir created by monks and alchemists. The earliest mentions of Gin (the name is derived from the Dutch word jenever, which came from the latin word juniperus which meant juniper) date from the early 17th century. After a conflict between England and France in the late 1600s, England restricted the import of French brandy and Gin became the national drink.
Early gins were distilled from grapes and grain, however most gins today begin as a neutral grain spirit, then flavored with botanicals, most notably juniper berries. The US and the EU require any spirit labeled “gin” to contain juniper berries. Yes, gin is essentially flavored vodka!
From the Cocktail Codex by Death & Co. (Ten Speed Pres, 2018):
“On the nose, gins are bright, alcoholic,and noticeably foest-y thanks to the juniper. But because different brands have unique characteristics, each will steer cocktails in different directions. A juniper-heavy high-proof gin like Tanqueray will be more assertive than a citrusy standard-proof gin, such as Plymouth. So we don’t consider one particular gin to be the best; we choose different gins for different reasons.”
When I was a young bartender in my 20s (many years ago), our gin lineup consisted of Beefeater and Tanqueray, two gins made in the style called London Dry. These gins have sharp, spicy flavors dominated by juniper berries. Gin and tonics were popular, as were the Tom Collins highball. I started many martini lunches for business men who requested extra dry martinis - basically gin on the rocks. The classic Martini has a significantly different flavor than an extra-dry martini (a recipe is at the end of this essay).
My, how times have changed.
To prepare for the September 19 six-course Gin Pairing Dinner at M’tucci’s Bar Roma, several chefs and bartenders took notes after tasting 20 gins on an August afternoon. I, along with most of them, were surprised at the range of flavors and characteristics of gins from: England, Scotland, Spain, France, Japan, Germany, Mexico, California, Kentucky and New Mexico.
“I'm not going to lie, when the idea was brought up of doing the gin dinner I was anything but excited. Sure I enjoy a negroni or three but that's was the extent of my gin knowledge,” said Company Chef Shawn Cronin.
“So then Bobbie (Bar manager at M’tucci’s Bar Roma) set up a tasting to try some really crazy gins and I was blown away. I didn't realize the range of different flavors and mouth feels that you could get out of different gins.”
“Knowing that we're going to have one brought in from the coast of Spain that is made with local rosemary, Bay leaf, sage is so exciting. Switching it up to go to one that has tropical flavors of guava and mango to pair with lobster, it has been so much fun knowing that they're not all just juniper bombs,” he said.
“When we start to think about pairing food with gin, We focused on how the gin’s botanical notes can enhance the dish. A gin with a crisp, citrusy profile will brighten up lighter fare, while a gin with more robust, spicy notes complements heartier dishes. Finding that balance where both the gin and the food elevate each other is always the best part of doing any pairing dinner. The gins we decided to use for our cocktails feature a rich botanical diversity, sweet complexity, with a unique heritage, giving rise to an unparalleled truly unique experience that we believe will be an amazing new journey into the Gin world,” said Executive Chef Damien Lucero.
We all had favorites, but the gins would need to used in cocktails, not sipped neat. We host Pairing Dinners to give our chefs and bartenders (when spirits are featured) the opportunity to be creative and work outside of their “Italian box”, but also for our guests to experience new flavors, and different food and drink combinations. The gins that made the cut are:
Our Featured Gins and Tasting Notes
Beefeater 24 (England): grapefruit peel and green tea are added to the classic Beefeater recipe, adding a citrusy profile.
Sassanach Wild Scottish Gin (Scotland): Created by the Scottish star of “Outlander”, the Sassenach Wild Scottish Gin is distilled using various locally foraged botanicals from the Dumfries and Galloway region of Scotland, the area where Sam Heughan was born and grew up. Featuring Scottish juniper, rhubarb, heather, Scots Pine resin, bramble leaf, blaeberry, crab apple and toasted oats, the result is a fresh London Dry style gin with layers of balanced, fresh flavors and a luxurious, creamy, soft mouthfeel.
Gin Mare (Spain): Gin Mare is produced in-house in a converted chapel at Distilerias Miquel Guanse in the small town of Vilanova on the Costa Dorada in Spain. It is a 'Mediterranean' styled gin featuring botanicals including rosemary, thyme, olive and basil, alongside traditional botanicals.
Fid St. Gin (Hawaii): FID Street Gin exhibits a very clean and aromatic fresh cut floral and citrus bouquet with a hint of forest air. FID St. is a Hawaiian Gin reminiscent of a London Dry, with tropical notes from Hawaiian fruit and botanicals.
Citadelle Gin (France): Distilled in the Southwest corner of France, the taste begins quietly until the aromatics re-enter the nose. The middle begins with fresh bright juniper, turning more crisp and bold. The finish is what sets Citadelle Gin apart from its peers: really bright, a touch sweet and strongly aromatic: cardamom, angelica, nutmeg, a wide array of baking spices which melds into a more sharp licorice and fennel on the finish. Generally spice forward and slightly contemporary with a juniper base.
Fords Gin (England): While many distilleries are going local, or seeking to create a notion of place, Fords Gin uses history and lore to create a sense of place [and tradition]. Instead, “Distilled in London; Botanicals from Everywhere” graces the bottle. The botanicals come from Spain, Haiti, Morocco, China, Italy, and so on. The flavor is actually rich and thick, it spreads thickly and evenly throughout the palate. Florals on the front. Viscous citrus, bright juniper build in the mid palate. The finish differs radically: complex earthy notes, intimations of angelica and orris root, a building floral punch redolent of rose and lavender, with a lingering citrus finish, fresh zesty peel.
Campari Cask Tales
A special treat will be offered before the Third Course. Campari Bitters has produced three unique bitters, using casks from Wild Turkey Bourbon, Appleton Estates Rum and Espolòn Tequila. A .5 oz. pour of each of the three versions will be available for $23.
Here is the promised Martini recipe from Death & Co. They emphasize that the Martini can exhibit many flavor profiles. Increase the vermouth portion and you have a martini that is more herbaceous. The classic in most bartender guides is:
2 oz. Gin, 3/4 oz. Dry Vermouth. Stir over ice and strain into a chilled stemmed glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.
Ideal Gin Martini from Death & Co.
2 oz. Plymouth Gin (or try Ford’s or Hendricks)
1 oz. Dolin Dry Vermouth (or try Dolin Blanc Vermouth)
1 dash of Orange Bitters
Stir over ice, strain into aa chilled stemmed glass. Express the lemon twist of the drink, then set it on the edge. Rubbing it along the rim can impart a lingering citrus oils can linger and overwhelm the flavor of the cocktail.
M’tucci’s and Barrett Foundation’s Harvest for Home
Weekend Specials
M’tucci’s Italian
Mushroom & Ricotta Ravioli - Beef Tips, Chestnut Mushrooms, Caramelized Onions, Gorgonzola Cream Sauce $25
24 oz. Porterhouse - Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Grilled Lemon, Balsamic Reduction $42
Pan-Seared Yellowtail - Creamy Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Arugula, Grilled Artichokes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $31sautéed Spinach, Roasted Carrots, Smoked Peach Shrub Reduction $25
Smoked Peach Sous Vide Duck Breast - Fennel & Butternut Squash Purée,
Weekend Cocktail
Autumn in Paris - Captain Morgan Rum, Fresh Lemon Juice, Apple Spice Simple Syrup, Prosecco Float
M’tucci’s Moderno
14 oz. NY Strip - Crispy Salt Water Potatoes, Sautéed Broccolini, Italian Salsa Verde $37
Pan-Seared Swordfish - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Broccolini, Roasted Artichokes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce, Prosciutto Powder $31
Prosciutto & Shrimp Pasta - Prosciutto, Shrimp, Chicken, Chardonnay Cream Sauce, House Made Campanelle Pasta $23
Weekend Cocktail
Blackberry Henny Smash - Hennesy Cognac, Fresh Lemon Juice, Simple Syrup, Muddled Blackberries
M’tucci’s Twenty-Five
Walnut Pasta with Clams - Fresh Clams in the Shell, Toasted Walnuts, Garlic, Butter, White Wine, Marinated Tomatoes, Pecorino, Parmesan, Basil, Parlsey, Amalfi Oil, House Made Spaghettini $31
Pan-Seared Rainbow Trout - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Zucchini, Artichoke Hearts, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $27
8 oz. Picaña Steak - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Creamy Horseradish Remoulade $33
Weekend Cocktail
Jalapeño Business - Illegal Mezcal, Triple Sec,Verdita, Fresh Lime Juice,
M’tucci’s Bar Roma
Carrot & Goat Cheese Ravioli - Bourbon-Braised Lamb Ragù, Roasted Carrots & Parsnips, Lemon Oil $23
Pan-Seared Ruby Trout - Garlic Whipped Mashed Potatoes, Braised Arugula with Garlic, Seared Stem-on Artichokes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $23
Weekend Cocktail
Cassis & Desist - Ford’s Gin, Creme de Cassis, Fresh Lemon Juice, Simple Syrup, Peychaud Bitters
Live Music for September & October
9/8 Lani Nash
9/11 Cali Shaw
9/15 Robb Janov
9/18 Johnny Lloyd
9/22 RJ Perez
9/25 Shane Wallin
9/29 Michael Rascon
10/2 Gilbert Uribe
10/6 Melissa Rios
10/9 Cali Shaw
10/13 Michael Rascon
10/16 Shane Wallin
10/20 RJ Perez
10/23 Robb Janov
10/27 Eryn Bent
10/30 Myles Chavez
M’tucci’s Bar Roma - 6:30pm Wednesday & Noon Sunday
M’tucci’s Moderno - 6:30 Thursday & 7:30 Friday
9/6 Melissa Rios
9/12 Michael Rascon
9/13 Robb Janov
9/19 Cali Shaw
9/20 RJ Perez
9/26 Myles Chavez
9/27 Johnny Lloyd
10/3 RJ Perez
10/4 Gilbert Uribe
10/10 Shane Wallin
10/11 Melissa Rios
10/17 Matt Jones
10/18 Eryn Bent
10/24 TBD
10/25 Robb Janov
10/31 Halloween no Music
M’tucci’s Twenty-Five - 6:30 Thursday & 7:30 Friday
9/6 Robb Janov
9/12 RJ Perez
9/13 Matt Jones
9/19 Shane Wallin
9/20 Michael Rascon
9/26 Gilbert Uribe
9/27 Melissa Rios
10/3 Michael Rascon
10/4 Robb Janov
10/10 Cali Shaw
10/11 Matt Jones
10/17 Shane Wallin
10/18 RJ Perez
10/24 Johnny Lloyd
10/25 Myles Chavez
10/31 Halloween No music
Thanks for reading. See you next Friday. Ciao!
