The trip to Puglia with family that was cancelled by the pandemic is now fully booked. Pretty excited to travel in one of the few regions of Italy where I have not visited. After two days of eating tapas in Madrid and a night in Rome, we’ll spend the rest of the trip in Puglia and Basilicata.

Much of what Americans consider to be “Italian” food are dishes from Southern Italy. Pizza was invented in Naples, Campania is the country’s breadbasket and pasta likely is from here, in addition to all of the other Southern charms: eggplant parmesan, burrata and insalata caprese.

The South is the poorest region in the country and it was ruled by several cultures who left their mark on the cuisine of Puglia and Basilicata. The Greeks and the Arabs probably had the most impact, as did the system of latifundium (basically a feudal system of large farms owned by absentee landlords and worked by slaves or indentured servants).

While Puglia has six provinces, a Chef once said that the region is divided by those who cook with garlic (Bari & Foggia) and those who prefer onions (Salento).

In Puglia the Greeks left distinctive architecture (trulli) and the pillars of Italian food: oil, wine and grains. The Arabs brought eggplants, bitter oranges and refined cane sugar.

In addition to producing most of Italy’s grain for pasta and bread, Puglia produces more olive oil and wine than any other part of the country.

The wines of Puglia are dominated by Primitivo (related to Zinfandel), with the Salento Peninsula surrounded by the Ionian and Adriatic Seas being one of the most notable areas. The warm weather, ocean breezes, and mix of the clay and limestone soil produces rich, intense reds. In addition to Primitivos, we’ll search out Negroamaro and Nero di Troia. All of these grapes are making vibrant rosé.

From Bari we’ll head north to Vieste and the Gargano Peninsula, which some call the undiscovered Amalfi Coast. After a few days exploring the forests and coast, we’ll head south to Matera in Basilicata. After several decades of neglect, Matera has become a tourist mecca for food, ancient cave dwellings and frescoes. Bring on the huge sourdough loaves called Pane di Matera. Will they be as good as M’tucci’s sourdough?

Returning to Puglia near Alberobello and Locorotondo, we’ll stay in one of area’s unique trulli houses, the bee-hive shaped stone houses that date back centuries. The stones are stacked without mortar, reportedly so they could be quickly disassembled when the tax man was coming to assess the taxes for the feudal lord or king.

I’m looking forward to meals starting with soppressata or capocollo, followed by orecchiette with bitter greens and pork, then fresh seafood from the Adriatic and the Gulf of Taranto, or lamb from small mountain farms.

The ring-shaped cracker that is usually flavored with olive oil and rosemary, taralli, are found everywhere (and on the Charcuterie Boards at M’tucci’s Moderno). Orecchiette is the favorite pasta in the area, sauced in different ways, but quite often with bitter greens called rapini or turnip tops here, but known as rapa in Puglia.

The sea on either side of the Salento Peninsula (the heel of the boot) is rich with shellfish, notably mussels. In many places they are packed with seasoned bread crumbs and deep fried. We might go to Otranto to find the version stuffed with a mixture of tuna, eggs, bread crumbs and pecorino and simmered in a tomato broth. We will definitely visit the west side of the peninsula for cozze all tarantina at the port/harbor town of Taranto, known for their mussels. So tasty, they are usually simmered in a simple broth of olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, chile flakes and white wine. Enjoy different preparations of mussels at M’tucci’s Italian and M’tucci’s Moderno.

M’tucci’s Anniversary Dinner @ Old Town Farm

July 20th

Dine under the stars to celebrate our 11th anniversary.

Menu and details coming soon!

M’tucci’s in the News

In a recent interview with Albuqeruque Business First, new APS Superintendent, Gabriella Durán Blakey, gave us a shoutout:

M’tucci’s Bar Roma & Teddy Roe’s Speakeasy listed as one of the leading spots in Nob Hill by United Airlines Hemispheres.

Weekend Specials

M’tucci’s Italian

Mushroom/Ricotta Ravioli - Blue Oyster Mushrooms, Crispy Morel Mushrooms, Pickled Chestnut Mushrooms, Caramelized Onions, Capers, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Porcini Lemon Cream Sauce, Arugula $27

14 oz. Ribeye - Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Grilled Lemon, Balsamic Reduction $43

Pan-Seared Ruby Red Trout - Creamy Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Arugula, Grilled Artichokes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $33

Prosciutto and Prune Braised Pork Collar - Creamy Garlic Scape Pesto, Marinated Tomatoes, Arugula, Red Onions, Fusillini Pasta $27

Weekend Cocktail

Between Two Ferns - Roku Gin, Fernet Branca, Orgeat Syrup, Fresh Lemon Juice, Pineapple Juice, Honey Simple Syrup, Angostura Bitters

M’tucci’s Moderno

6 oz. Black Angus Filet - Crispy Salt Water Potatoes, Sautéed Broccolini, Italian Salsa Verde $33

Pan-Seared Yellowtail - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Broccolini, Roasted Artichokes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce, Prosciutto Powder $29

Beef Tips with Five Cheese Raviolini - Beef Tips, Grape Tomatoes, Cayenne Seasoning, Rosa Sauce, Rosa Sauce, Gorgonzola, Green Onions $25

Weekend Cocktail

Coco-Rita - Correlejos Reposado Tequila, St. Germaine, Fresh Lime Juice, Simple Syrup, Coconut Milk

M’tucci’s Twenty-Five

Mint Marinated Lamb Chops - Cucumber Dill Sauce, Grilled Zucchini, Roasted Red Bell Peppers & Shallots, Fried Capers, Roasted Garlic, Fennels Prawns & Mint Vinaigrette $38

Pan-Seared Swordfish - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Braised Greens, Artichoke Hearts, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $29

8 oz. Picaña - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Charred Broccolini, Creamy Horseradish Remoulade $33

Weekend Cocktail

Sage Advice- Illegal Joven Mezcal, Liquid Alchemist Blood Orange, Fresh Lime Juice, Sage Agave Syrup, Angostura Amaro, Fried Sage Leaf

M’tucci’s Bar Roma

10 oz. Gorgonzola-Crusted Wagyu Flank Steak - Roasted Broccolini & Red Bell Peppers, Red Wine Brodo Pecorino Risotto $37

Pan-Seared Ono - Garlic Whipped Mashed Potatoes, Braised Arugula with Garlic, Seared Stem-on Artichokes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $33

Weekend Cocktail

Strawberry Delight - Tito’s Vodka, Lazzaroni Limoncello, Fresh Lemon Juice, Simple Syrup, Muddled Strawberries & Fresh Basil, Sparkling Wine Float

Live Music for June

M’tucci’s Bar Roma - 6:30pm Wednesday & Noon Sunday

6/23 Myles Chavez

6/26 Shane Wallin

6/30 RJ Perez

M’tucci’s Moderno - 6:30 Thursday & 7:30 Friday

6/21 Jacob Chavez

6/27 Gilbert Uribe

6/28 RJ Perez

M’tucci’s Twenty-Five - 6:30 Thursday & 7:30 Friday

6/21 Robb Janov

6/27 Shane Wallin

6/28 Myles Chavez

Thanks for reading. See you next Friday. Ciao!

This post was supposed to have started with the dateline: Locorotondo, Puglia, Italy, because that is where I planned to be this week. Instead, I’m sitting at home in the Near North Valley. I’ll do my best to write about what we planned on eating and seeing while taking a slow road trip through Southern Italy.

Much of what we consider to be “Italian” food are dishes that came from Southern Italy. Pizza was invented in Naples, Campania is the country’s breadbasket and pasta likely is from here, in addition to all of the other Southern charms: eggplant parmesan and insalata caprese.

The poorest region in the country, it was ruled by several cultures who left their mark on the cuisine of Puglia,Basilicata and Campania (the three regions we planned to visit). The Greeks and the Arabs probably had the most impact, as did the system of latifundium (basically a feudal system of large farms owned by absentee landlords and worked by slaves or indentured servants).

In Puglia the Greeks left distinctive architecture (trulli) and the pillars of Italian food: oil, wine and grains. The Arabs brought eggplants, bitter oranges and refined cane sugar.

From “Tasting Italy: A Culinary Journey” by National Geographic & America’s Test Kitchen

After flying into Bari from Rome, we were going to be based in a trulli house in Locorontondo, making side trips to some of the seaside and mountain towns in Puglia and Basilicata, such as Lecce and Taranto. We would expect meals starting with soppressata or carpaccio, pastas with bitter greens and pork, fresh seafood from the Adriatic and the Gulf of Taranto or pork for small mountain farms. We would wash it down with full-bodied reds such as Primitivo or Aglianico or crisp, chilled Greco di Tufo and, of course, finishing our meals with local Amari. I was looking forward to trying out some of the region’s rosé, since they are hard to find in ABQ.

I asked Amy Haas, who created the wine list at M’tucci’s Twenty-Five about her favorite Southern Italian wines:

The Sicilian Nero d’Avola at M’tucci’s Twenty-Five

“When I think about southern Italy, my heart always goes to Sicily. Although the region doesn't host the popular grapes everyone loves, it does host in my opinion, some of the best. Sicilian wines are not on center stage and don't garner a huge demand in the U.S. This is just fine with me as I've never been one for trends and I cringe at the thought of popularity as any real indicator of quality. Anyway, back to Sicily and it's fairly unknown grapes. I will highlight two here, both red and both incredibly unique:

Nerello Mascalese - beautiful red berries and bright acidity fall into a surprisingly tannic backbone. The balance of fruit and acid with a tannic punch mid palate makes this wine incredibly versatile when pairing with food as well as incredibly complex on it's own. To me, it's like Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo had a really awesome baby.

Nero d'Avola- dark fruits co-exist seamlessly with noticeable acidity and sweet, approachable tannins. Although most would describe it as a delicious full bodied red on its own, once it’s blended with Frappato (a light, floral grape also from Sicily) the result is something unparalleled on the palate. I don't have a baby making reference here.

There's just something about Sicily that makes the heart (and palate) sing. The song isn't a popular one, it's more like a B side masterpiece nobody knows about yet. Shhhhh, don't tell.”

An Aglianico from Campania, a Primitivo from Puglia and a white from Campania; all available at M’tucci’s Twenty-Five.

The ring-shaped cracker that is usually flavored with olive oil and rosemary, taralli, are found everywhere (and on the Charcuterie Boards at M’tucci’s Moderno and M’tucci’s Italian). I was planning on seeking out some of the more unusual flavors I have read about. Orrechiette is the favorite pasta in the area, sauced in different ways, but quite often with bitter greens called rapini here, but known as rapa in Puglia. Luckily, I have some in my garden nearly ready to pick. I’ll cook it with Italian sausage, a bit of white wine, garlic and a good dose of red pepper flakes. I suppose it will help me with my wanderlust for Italy.

Cima di Rapa or Rapini. Also known as turnip tops. A bitter green that goes well with Italian sausage. — *Cima di Rapa* or *Rapini.* Also known as turnip tops. A bitter green that goes well with Italian sausage.

The sea on either side of the Salento Peninsula (the heel of the boot) is rich with shellfish, notably mussels. In many places they are packed with seasoned bread crumbs and deep fried. We planned to go to Otranto to find the version stuffed with a mixture of tuna, eggs, bread crumbs and pecorino and simmered in a tomato broth. Perhaps we would have made it to the west side of the peninsula for cozze all tarantina at the port/harbor town of Taranto, known for their mussels. So tasty, they are usually simmered in a simple broth of olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, chile flakes and white wine.

Chef Shawn at M’tucci’s has created his own take on mussels by simmering them in a bourbon/jalapeño broth. Good enough to make me forget about Puglia’s version. However, the drive around the coast along the boot heel will have to wait.

Fresh Mussels for M’tucci’s Twenty-Five’s Bourbon Braised Mussels - only available Happy Hour M-F 3:00-6:00.

Continuing into Basilicata, we were going to visit Matera, which has become a tourist mecca for food and the ancient cave dwellings and frescoes. I wanted to visit to try the huge sourdough loaves called Pane di Matera. Famous, yes, but better than M’tucci’s??

After returning our car at the airport in Bari, we were going to zip across Italy to Naples (yes, to visit Pompeii), primarily to eat pizza - for three days!! It’s quite possible we would not have it for breakfast, since I’ve heard the cappuccino is stellar in Naples. We had three pizza places picked out, known for simple, high quality ingredients. Someday. If you get there before me, try out Sorbillo, Pizza La Notizia or Starita.

For now, I can eat the best pizza available outside of Italy at M’tucci’s. Quality ingredients and the best sourdough crust possible.

Weekend Specials

M’tucci’s Italian

Goat Cheese Ravioli - Truffle, Wild Mushroom, Crispy House Pancetta, Roasted Butternut Squash, Carmelized Onion, Rappini, Light Porcini Cream Sauce $23

Hand Cut 24oz Porterhouse - Crispy Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Grilled Lemon, Balsamic Reduction $37

Pan-Seared Ono - Creamy Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Artichokes, Sautéed Arugula, Lemon Cream Sauce $26

Braise - Slow Braised Harris Ranch Angus Beef, Three Cheese Spinach Artichoke Cream Sauce, House Pappardelle Pasta $25

Gelato: Berry Vanilla Shrub

Sorbetto: Mango

Sunday Only: Full Rack of Baby Back Ribs, Salt Water Potatoes, Sautéed Spinach and House BBQ Sauce for $27

M’tucci’s Moderno

24 oz Hand-Cut NY Strip - Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Italian Salsa Verde $31

Pan-Seared Mahi Mahi - Creamy Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Roasted Artichokes, Sautéed Arugula, Lemon Cream Sauce, Capers, Prosciutto Powder $26

House Pesto Ravioli - Grape Tomatoes, Shallots, Roasted Artichoke, Pesto Cream Sauce $19

Gelato: Tiramisu

Sorbetto: Raspberry Lemon

Sunday Only: House Made Lasagna with Herbed Ricotta, Five Pork Bolognese and Roasted Tomato Marinara. $16 (it’s large)

M’tucci’s Twenty-Five

Pan-Seared Fresh Ono - Grilled Escarole, Prosciutto Powder, Garlic Whipped Potatoes, Seared Artichokes, Topped with Prosciutto Powder, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $24

Gelatos: Dark Chocolate & Strawberry Cheesecake

Sorbetto: Raspberry Lemon

Tuesday, October 27 - 4:00

Halloween Costumes & ABQ Bartender Competition/Fundraiser

10% total restaurant sales for the day + proceeds from competition donated to CLN Kids

Call 505-554-2660 to reserve a 4 top VIP Table for $200 - includes prime seating for the Bartender Competition, 2 rounds Charcuterie/Cicchetti & specialty cocktail

10 local bartenders competing for 1st, 2nd and 3rd place - knock out style 3 rounds

We are auctioning drinks from competition to VIP tables

Door prices for best costume.