Venice - La Serenissima
/Venice, or Venezia, is the group of islands which initially served as a refuge for the residents of the Veneto when Vandals invaded the Northeastern part of Italy in the fifth century A.D.
The fleeing merchants and farmers built houses on piles, and built lives fishing the lagoons and building boats. The islands provided protection and a home where they planted orchards, vineyards and vegetables.
Because of her location, La Serenissima (the most serene republic), became an indisputable sea power for eight centuries, dominating the trade routes to Persia, China and India. The power and influence of Venice spread throughout the Adriatic to include much of Italy and what is now Croatia.
The proximity to the lagoons and the clean waters of the Adriatic, means that Venetians eat more seafood than any other part of Italy. An early morning stroll through the Rialto Market, arguably one of the finest in Europe, takes you past beautiful displays of fresh fish, scallops, clams, octopus, spider crabs, lobsters and prawns. The produce is equally impressive.
During a September trip to Venice, we wanted to avoid the crowds of tourists. Venice is the 4th busiest cruise ship port in Europe and the hoards sometimes overwhelme St. Mark’s Square and the surrounding area. So we booked an Airbnb about as far away from St. Mark’s as possible, in the Cannaregio neighborhood. It offers no tourist attractions, save the historic Jewish Quarter. What it does offer is cafes, trattoria, osteria and cichetti bars.
Cichetti are the Venice version of Spanish tapas, small wine bars with a selection of seafood, meat and vegetables, creatively combined to make savory bruschetta. Several of the oldest cichetti bars are near the Rialto Market, but quite a few line the Misericordia canal in Cannaregio. We enjoyed Bar All’Arco and Cantina do Mori near Rialto and Vino Vero along the canal.
It was a perfect five days of walks, long lunches and joining the Venetians as they stopped at their morning cafes for cappuccino and, later in the day, we visited cichetti bars for small bites and an ombra (small glass of wine). Imagine a city with no cars!
Scenes in Cannaregio
Seafood, cichetti and an array of meat dishes are all found in this relatively quiet neighborhood. Since the charcuterie boards are very popular at M’tucci’s (and with me), we couldn’t resist Al Timon, a local restaurant that offered a “Meat Board”. Choose from Bistecca alla fiorentina, Hanger Steak, Tomahawk Steak or Beef Tenderloin with a side of roasted potatoes and grilled vegetables. After 11 days of seafood in Croatia and four more days of seafood in Venice, sometimes a “Meat Board” is what’s for dinner. We chose the bistecca. Incredible!
When you are staying where the locals live and where there are few tourist attractions, it’s easy to slow down and enjoy Italian life. Since I have seen the Vatican, the Duomo in Florence and St. Mark’s Square in Venice, my recent trips to Italy involve small towns or neighborhoods in the cities, where I can walk the streets and try to imagine life as an Italian. For me, few things surpass stopping at a cafe or bar and watching the street show with a glass of the local wine. Where, quite often, Italian life unfolds before you.
Weekend Specials
M’tucci’s Italian
Ravioli - Duck & Smoked Gouda Filling, Pancetta, Cherry Tomatoes, Caramelized Onions, Brown Butter, Arugula $27
14 oz. Ribeye - Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Grilled Lemon, Balsamic Reduction $43
Pan-Seared Mahi Mahi - Creamy Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Arugula, Grilled Artichokes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $33
Sackett Farms Pork Collar Braised in Apple Cider - Horseradish Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Haricot Vert $27
Weekend Cocktail
The Old Master - Teddy Roe’s Rye, Jagermeister, Frozen Apple Juice Cube
M’tucci’s Moderno
24 oz. Porterhouse - Crispy Salt Water Potatoes, Sautéed Broccolini, Italian Salsa Verde $43
Pan-Seared Ocean Trout - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Broccolini, Roasted Artichoke, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce, Prosciutto Powder $29
Sackett Farms Pork Belly - Risotto, Mushrooms, Carrots, Celery Cream Sauce $25
Weekend Cocktail
Choco-Cherry Delight - Bailey’s Irish Cream, Cherry Heering, SloMo, Creme de Cacao, Espresso
M’tucci’s Twenty-Five
Creamy Beef Brodo Tortelloni - Seared Beef Tips, Caramelized Onion, Calabrian Mushrooms Spinach, Cheese Tortelloni, Creamy Beef Brodo $25
Pan-Seared Ruby Trout - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Braised Greens, Artichoke Hearts, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $36
24 oz. T-Bone - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Charred Broccolini, Creamy Horseradish Remoulade $42
Weekend Cocktail
Trace of Fall - Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Apple Spice Alchemist, Fresh Lemon Juice, Honey Simple Syrup
M’tucci’s Bar Roma
Chicken Cacciatore - Roasted Chicken, Italian Olives, Caramelized Onions, Braised Red Wine San Marzano Tomato Sauce, Linguine, Cacio di Roma, Fresh Herbs with Cracked Black Pepper $21
Pan-Seared Grouper - Garlic Whipped Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Arugula, Roasted Artichokes, Capers, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $35
Weekend Cocktail
Apple Bourbon Pie - Wellers Bourbon, Apfel, Fresh Lemon Juice, Cinnamon-Infused Simple Syrup
Live Music for October
M’tucci’s Bar Roma - 6:30pm Wednesday
10/22 The Dee Brown Situation (1:00pm) Special show
10/25 Lani Nash
M’tucci’s Moderno - 6:30 Thursday & 7:30 Friday
10/20 Lani Nash
10/26 Oscar Butler
10/27 Matt Jones
M’tucci’s Twenty-Five - 6:30 Thursday & 7:30 Friday
10/20 Johnny Lloyd
10/26 Shane Wallin
10/27 Martin York
Thanks for reading. See you next Friday. Ciao!
