Time for Rosé
/A glass of rosé is good any time of year, but there is something about warmer weather that begs for a glass of chilled wine.
In the U.S., rosé is finally overcoming the bad rap caused by the popularity of White Zinfandels that were often too sweet. Crisp and complex rosé has been a favorite of Spain (rosado), Italy (rosato) and France for generations.
The color of the wine comes from brief contact of the clear juice and the grape skins, usually from two to twenty hours. The color of the rosé is determined by the type of grapes used and the amount of time the juice is in contact with the skins. If the skins were left with the juice during fermentation, the result is red wine.
Rosé is likely the earliest version of wine, since the early pressing and fermentation methods didn’t produce red wines. For many years, red wines that were made with the skins and juice together were considered harsh and of lower quality.
In the 1950s, America was introduced to rosé by two imports from Portugal, Lancers and Mateus, both of which were on the sweet side. In the mid-’70s the White Zinfandel from Sutter Home Vineyards was the result of “stuck fermentation” (the yeast went dormant or died before all of the sugars could be converted to alcohol). The winemaker tasted it a few weeks later and decided to release it and the White Zinfandel craze was born.
Much of the world’s best rosé is produced in the Provence region of France, where the majority of their wines are rosé. Blends or single varietals of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Grenache account for the most of the celebrated rosé of the region. Tavel is another region in Southern France which produces a vibrant rosé, primarily made from Grenache grapes.
Italian rosato can be found from the Veneto in the north to Sicily in the south. The local grapes of each region contribute to unique flavors. The rosatos of Calabria and Sicily are made with negroamaro and primitivo grapes (which produce big, full-bodied reds), resulting in more robust flavors.
Sparkling rosé and rosato are popular throughout France and Italy. New Mexico winemaker Gruet, also offers a sparkling rosé, which is available by the glass at M’tucci’s Bar Roma and M’tucci’s Twenty-Five. M’tucci’s Moderno serves a Prosecco rosé by Ruffino and M’tucci’s Italian pours a Spanish sparkling rosé by Segura Viudas. Still rosés range from our local favorite Sheehan Cinsault rosé to France’s Côte de Rosé from Gérard Bertrand available in half-bottles.
M’tucci’s Twenty-Five is fortunate to have one of the managers pursuing sommelier certification (ie: wine expert). She has reached level 1 and is now working on level 2. Liv Jordy offers her thoughts on rosé.
“Summer is the season of rosé, a delicious style of wine made from red skinned grapes. Because all of the color in rosé wine comes from the grape’s skins, it’s important how long that skin is in contact with the juice. Rosé is so fascinating to me because it’s the perfect example of the creativity and control of the winemaker. Do they decide to use thin or thick skinned grapes? Do they macerate the grapes or press and let it free run? Do they let the skins sit in contact for 30 minutes or 3 hours?”
“Some of my favorite rosé is made with Grenache, or Garnacha. A grape variety indigenous to Spain, but also grown in Southern Rhône France and Sardinia, Italy. Each of these regions produces a slightly different style from the same grape, exemplifying how much growing conditions and environment matter in wine. When I’m looking for a rosé, I’m drawn towards a rich color, medium body, with a more complex flavor profile.”
“In a Grenache rosé, you get notes of fresh strawberry and watermelon, citruses like grapefruit and orange, and an earthiness of baking spices and wet stone. All balanced by a well-structured acidity. A symphony of delicate layers, and a silky mouthfeel. My favorite rosé comes from Tavel, a subregion of Southern Rhône Valley. This appellation, by law, is only allowed to produce rosé made of up to 60% Grenache. If you come across a bottle of Tavel, I highly encourage you to try it, and thank me later.”
Celebrate Spring and Summer with these delicious rosés at home or at any M’tucci’s location.
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M’tucci’s Bar Roma - 6:30pm Wednesday & Noon Sunday
5/12 Johnny Lloyd
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5/22 Chris Dracup
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5/29 Myles Chavez
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Thanks for reading. See you next Friday. Ciao!
