Travel in Puglia, Pt. 1

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Our recent visit to Italy was almost entirely in the Puglia region. We slipped into Basilicata for a day trip and stopped in Rome for one night before taking the train to Puglia. I’ll break our visit into three parts: the inland hill towns, the coastal areas and the Gargano Peninsula and the olive harvest.

One of the hallmarks of inland Puglia are the trulli houses, which are concentrated in and around the towns of Alberobello, Locorotondo and Martina Franca. Rather than deal with the crowds in each town, we rented a trulli house in the countryside between Locorotondo and Martina Franca. As with most of the trip, we were deep in the heart of olive and wine country.

Trullis, are the bee-hive shaped stone houses that date back centuries. The stones are stacked without mortar, reportedly so they could be quickly disassembled when the tax man was coming to assess the taxes for the feudal lord or king. By removing the roof, the houses were considered incomplete, and as such, were not subject to taxes.

There was no shortage of charcuterie at the local supermarket: coppa, prosciutto, salami and mortadella and local cheese: burrata, mozzarella, caciocavollo and ricotta salata (an aged, dry ricotta). Bitter greens and fava beans are very popular. We had a private dinner at a chef’s house, where he served the four of us a purée of fava beans with sautéed chicory, caramelized onions and roasted sweet peppers called cornettos. He said that his mother made this several times a week when he was growing up. Deeply satisfying Puglian comfort food.

The day trip from our trulli house to Alberobello to see more trulli houses was an easy 15 minutes. The old historic center was full of the conical houses and the pedestrian-only streets were a nice way to spend a morning.

A stop in Locorotondo for lunch at a restaurant perched on the edge of the hilltown’s cliff, gave us a view of vineyards and olive groves leading to Martina Franca.

The ancient town of Matera, with cliff-side cave houses was in shambles 20-30 years ago. The hill town slowly started coming back, and then hit star status when it was featured in the opening chase scene in the James Bond movie, “No Time to Die.” We stopped by Matera on the way to our next destination, Gallipoli.

Matera is very hilly and was busy with tourists, even in mid-October. The historic part is pedestrian only, except for small tuk-tuks that are allowed to navigate the narrow and hilly streets. If you do decide to spend a night or two here, be prepared to do the “bag drag” up and down hilly, stone streets to find your hotel.

Editor’s note on Rome: If you are thinking of a visit in the near future, think again. In mid-October, all of the major fountains in Piazza Navona were closed, encircled by large fences, and the Trevi Fountain had no water. The fountains and many of the major historical sites are undergoing renovation and cleaning for the Catholic Church’s 2025 Jubilee Celebration. You might consider skipping Rome altogether in 2025, since you are likely to be greeted with crowds and higher prices. I have been to Rome in July, August, September and October. I have never seen the streets so crowded.

Next: Coastal towns of Gallipoli, Monopoli & Polignano a Mare

Thanksgiving Pies - Order Now!

Lavazza Mocha Black Bottom Pie - $19

We are bringing this back from last year with a twist. Black bottom pies consist of a chocolate layer on the bottom topped with a chantilly cream. This year we are infusing the chocolate with Lavazza coffee.


Old Forester Bourbon Pecan Pie - $21

We aren't saying that a Brown Sugar Old Fashioned with Old Forester is the perfect pairing for an after-Thanksgiving dinner treat with this classic pecan pie, but, I mean, for scientific purposes it may be worth trying.

Vanilla Pumpkin Swirl Cheesecake

topped with Vanilla Chantilly and Pumpkin Seed Brittle-  $35

We are super excited to launch this. It is our classic cheesecake with a pumpkin swirl. They are slow cooked in a water bath to get the best texture.

Note that the crust is gluten-free graham cracker and will be cut into portions for your convenience.

This Weekend, get a slice of the Pumpkin Swirl Cheesecake for only $6, while supplies last.

Order in person or call the M’tucci’s restaurant closest to you by November 23. This is the last day to order, no exceptions. Pick up your pies on Tuesday or Wednesday, 11/26 or 27. We remind you that we are closed on Thanksgiving Day.

M’tucci’s Italian: 505-503-7327

M’tucci’s Moderno: 505-891-2432

M’tucci’s Twenty-Five: 505-554-2660

M’tucci’s Bar Roma: 505-508-3948

Weekend Specials

M’tucci’s Italian

Artichoke Ravioli - Pancetta, Artichokes, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Arugula, Herbed White Wine Sauce, Lemon Oil, Pecorino, Cracked Black Pepper $27

24 oz. Porterhouse - Crispy Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Grilled Lemon, Balsamic Reduction $43

Pan-Seared Grouper - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Arugula, Grilled Artichokes, Lemon Caper Sauce $35

Cioppino - Mussels, Clams, Shrimp, Bay Scallops, Seafood/Tomato Brodo, Lemon Zest, M’tucci’s Bread $29

Weekend Cocktail

The Driver - Hennesey Cognac, Meletti Amaro, Fresh Lemon Juice


M’tucci’s Moderno

24 oz. Porterhouse - Crispy Salt Water Potatoes, Sautéed Broccolini, Italian Salsa Verde $43

Pan-Seared Mahi Mahi - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Broccolini, Roasted Artichokes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce, Prosciutto Powder $32

Beef Tips Raviolini - Beef Tips with Cajun Seasoning, Rosa Sauce, Green Onions, Gorgonzola Cheese $23

Weekend Cocktail

Apple Autumn Toddy - Apple Brandy, Fresh Lemon Juice, Cinnamon Simple Syrup, Hot Water

M’tucci’s Twenty-Five

Oven Roasted Cornish Game Hen - Roasted Hen, Grilled Asparagus, Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Lemon/Pecorino Brodo $27

Pan-Seared Ruby Trout - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Zucchini, Artichoke Hearts, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $29

8 oz. Picaña - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Creamy Horseradish Remoulade $33

Weekend Cocktail

Still Summer Somewhere - Hornitos Blanco Tequila, Ancho Reyes, Liquid Alchemist Prickly Pear, Fresh Lime Juice, Simple Syrup

M’tucci’s Bar Roma

Pan-Seared Yellowtail - Garlic Whipped Mashed Potatoes, Braised Arugula with Garlic, Seared Stem-on Artichokes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $33

Calabrian Glazed Sackett Farms Pork Belly - Roasted Carrots, Parsnip Purée, Amaro Vinaigrette, Spring Mix and Pickled Onions $23

Weekend Cocktail

What’s Happen’n Manhattan - Creator’s Cut Bourbon, Amarretto, 1757 Vermouth, Orange Bitters, Angostura Bitters

Live Music for November & December

M’tucci’s Bar Roma - 6:30pm Wednesday & Noon Sunday     

11/10 Lani Nash 

11/13 Michael Rascon 

11/17 Robb Janov

11/20 Cali Shaw

11/24 Shane Wallin 

11/27 Myles Chavez

12/1 Michael Rascon 

12/4 Shane Wallin 

12/8 Lani Nash 

12/11 Robb Janov

12/15 Cali Shaw 

12/18 Javier Ortega 

12/22 Shane Wallin 

12/29 RJ Perez        

M’tucci’s Moderno - 6:30 Thursday & 7:30 Friday           

11/8 Gilbert Uribe 

11/14 Mya Gutierrez 

11/15 Michael Rascon 

11/21 RJ Perez 

11/22 Myles Chavez

11/29 Rob Janov 

12/5 Jacob Chavez

12/6 Chris Dracup 

12/12 RJ Perez 

12/13 Michael Rascon 

12/19 Shane Wallin 

12/20 Robb Janov

12/26 Gilbert Uribe 

12/27 Cali Shaw

M’tucci’s Twenty-Five - 6:30 Thursday & 7:30 Friday          

11/8 Chris Dracup 

11/14 Shane Wallin

11/15 Rob Janov

11/21 Micheal Rascon

11/22 Cali Shaw 

11/29 Matt Jones

12/5 Mya Gutierrez 

12/6 RJ Perez 

12/12 Shane Wallin

12/13 Robb Janov

12/19 Cali Shaw

12/20 Gilbert Uribe 

12/26 Myles Chavez 

12/27 Michael Rascon 

Thanks for reading. See you next Friday. Ciao!