Italian Travels
/Editors Note: The editor is taking a few days off for camping. This guide appeared in La Gazzetta two years ago.
The best time of the year for travel in Italy is coming - September & October. September is a great month for travel and October is even better with cooler weather, wine and olive harvests and festivals throughout the region. After visiting Italy six times, here are my suggestions - and a few of my favorite photos.
Begin your trip by flying into Rome, taking the Leonardo Express train to Rome’s Termini station, then catch the fast train to Florence. Book online with Trenitalia and choose the Freccia option for fast train (about two hours). If you have an hour or so at Termini, there is a large food court on the second level and next door to the station.
Day 1-3: Find an Airbnb or nice hotel in central Florence. Make sure to book your visit to the Uffizi gallery well in advance. Visit the Duomo, which dominates the main piazza, cross the Arno River on the Ponte Vecchio, and escape the crowds by visiting restaurants near Piazza San Spirito. Rent a bike or take a taxi to Piazzale Michelangiolo to watch sunrise over the city. Take an easy bus to the hill town of Fiesole to enjoy the restaurants and views looking over the entire city and the Arno Valley. Do make reservations at Buca Mario, one of the oldest restaurants in the city or try the bistecca alla Fiorentina at Regina Bistecca. The Central Market is the place for olive oils, dried porcini and quick bites for lunch.
Days 4 & 5: Take a taxi or bus to the airport to pick up a rental car. Driving in Italy is fun and easy, so don’t hesitate to get a car to visit hill towns not accessible by train. Book two nights in one of Chianti’s hill towns such as Panzano, Greve in Chianti or Castellini in Chianti. There are an overwhelming number of wineries, restaurants and cooking classes available. Near Castellini in Chianti is Azienda Agricola Casamonti, a farm (that breeds Cinta Sinese free-range pigs) and winery. They offer short tours and a large lunch. Antinori Winery with its modern visitors center, tasting room, gift shop and restaurant is a popular destination. TV celebrity chef Dario Cecchini holds forth nearly every day at his butcher shop/restaurant complex in the hill town of Panzano. There are three different restaurants from which to choose, based on your desired level of meat consumption.
Days 6 & 7: Drive to Siena for two nights. Explore the city with the grand Piazza del Campo, the home to the exciting Palio horse races and the majestic Duomo. The best views are gained by climbing the Torre del Mangia. Study the Google maps well, since there is little parking available in the center of the ancient city. You’ll park your car in lots that are located in the periphery, so book a room somewhat close to a parking lot.
Days 8 & 9: Drive west from Siena, stopping to see the towers of San Gimignano. Try to get there early to beat squadrons of buses and their passengers that descend upon the medieval city. On the main piazza here is a local gelato shop, Gelateria Dondoli, whose proprietor has won the world gelato competition twice - the perfect breakfast!
Continue on to the town of Bolgheri in the wine growing region of Coastal Tuscany. The town, surrounded by vineyards, is walkable with several good restaurants and spots to taste the famed Super Tuscans. Visit the hill towns of Bibbona and Castagneto and Marina di Castagneto -Donoratico and San Vincenzo for views of the Tyrrehian Sea. Any of these towns would be good for base for two nights.
Days 10 & 11: Drive east through the countryside to my favorite Tuscan hill town, Montalcino. This town has it all, great restaurants, stunning views of the surrounding vineyards and lots of places to enjoy one of Italy’s finest wines, Brunello di Montalcino. La Fortezza is good for sampling many Brunellos and its less costly cousin, Rosso di Montalcino. Like Siena, you will have to park in one of the parking lots that surround the small town, so be prepared for a little walking to your hotel. Don’t make the same mistake I did and arrive on a Saturday without restaurant reservations. The small town is a popular weekend destination for Italians and travelers. The same goes for all of the restaurants that I have mentioned - make reservations.
Days 12 & 13: Here are two options, depending on your mood. If you have had enough of small towns and wine country and want some big city life, then return the car to Florence and return to Rome on the train. Two nights in a hotel/Airbnb near the Campo di Fiore or Piazza Navona could be the perfect end to your Tuscan travels. Or you could choose to continue east to the hill town of Cortona, made famous as the setting for the book and move, “Under the Tuscan Sun” by Frances Mayes. It has the same charms as Montalcino, with views that take in Umbria and Lake Trasimeno.
Last Day: Instead of sleeping in a disappointing hotel near Termini in Rome the night before your flight, consider staying in the town right by the airport. However, don’t stay at a drab chain hotel at the airport, instead go to the port city of Fiumicino, which has two terrific (according to the writer, Frances Mayes) hotels,. The Seccy and Hotel QC Terme Roma are both within walking distance of good restaurants and they both are only 10 minutes from the airport.
Buon Viaggio!
September and October Festivals in Tuscany
Expo Chianti Classico of Greve, which gathers producers from all over the Chianti Classico territory, a chance to sample Chiantis in Chianti. It takes place on the second weekend of September, in the splendid square of Greve in Chianti with tastings, art exhibitions, and concerts. Which means it begins today, so unless you are already there, you’ll have to plan for next year.
Also for next year is the Fiera del Cacio Pienza, the fair that celebrates Tuscan pecorino and is held the first Sunday in September.
Castelnuovo Berardenga celebrates grapes with the Festa dell'uva in Vagliagli.
At the end of October, the 6 municipalities of Chianti adhere to the "Camminata Tra gli Olivi", in collaboration with the Associazione Città dell'Olio: a day dedicated to the discovery of the "green gold" at the time of the olive harvest and pressing.
Ruidoso Musicians Fundraiser
For the entire month of August, 100% of sales of all Santa Fe Beers at all M’tucci’s locations will be donated to a non-profit set up for musicians who lost their homes, instruments and clothing in the Ruidoso fires and floods. So, buy the bar a round and drink up!
Here is what’s on tap:
M'tucci's Italian: 7K IPA, Social Hour and Oktoberfest
M'tucci's Moderno: Oktoberfest, Slightly Social & Nut Brown
M'tucci's Twenty-Five: Nut Brown & Social Hour
M'tucci's Bar Roma: 7K IPA, Santa Fhazy IPA and Nut Brown
Weekend Specials
M’tucci’s Italian
Five Cheese Ravioli - Cotto Ham, Red Onions, Chestnut Mushrooms, Kale, Roasted Butternut Squash Cream Sauce, Cherry Pecan Gremolata $25
24 oz. Porterhouse - Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Grilled Lemon, Balsamic Reduction $43
Pan-Seared Bluenose Bass - Creamy Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Arugula, Grilled Artichokes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $33
Sackett Farms Pork Shoulder - Braised in NM Red Chile, Calabacita, Roasted Corn, Caramelized Onions, Feta Cheese, Parsley $25
Weekend Cocktail
Blues Got A Clue - Orange Gin, Blue Curacao, Fresh Lemon Juice, Cream, Guava Syrup, Simple Syrup
M’tucci’s Moderno
14 oz. Ribeye - Crispy Salt Water Potatoes, Sautéed Broccolini, Italian Salsa Verde $43
Pan-Seared California Halibut - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Broccolini, Roasted Artichokes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce, Prosciutto Powder $33
New Menu Item - Shrimp Florentine Pasta - Shrimp, Mussels, Shallots, Mushrooms, Spinach, House Made Spaghetti $23
Weekend Cocktail
The Cold Blood - Templeton Rye, Sweet Vermouth, Cynar Amaro
M’tucci’s Twenty-Five
White Wine Bianco Linguine - Shrimp, Clams, White Wine Bianco Sauce, Garlic, Parsley, House Made Linguine $33
Pan-Seared Corvina - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Zucchini, Artichoke Hearts, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $38
24 oz. T-Bone - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Creamy Horseradish Remoulade $42
Weekend Cocktail
Sicilian Spritz - Empress Gin, Limoncello, St. Germaine, Fresh Lemon Juice, Prosecco Float
M’tucci’s Bar Roma
Torta Salata di Pollo - Shredded Chicken Thigh, Carrots, Onions, Celery, Potatoes baked in Puff Pastry $21
Pan-Seared Corvina - Garlic Whipped Mashed Potatoes, Braised Arugula with Garlic, Seared Stem-on Artichokes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $38
Weekend Cocktail
Pretty in Pink - Espolon Blanco Tequila, Saint Germaine, Fresb Lemon, Simple Syrup
Live Music for August
M’tucci’s Bar Roma - 6:30pm Wednesday & Noon Sunday
8/18 Johnny Lloyd
8/21 Shane Wallin
8/25 RJ Perez
8/28 Eryn Bent
M’tucci’s Moderno - 6:30 Thursday & 7:30 Friday
8/16 Melissa Rios
8/22 Nathan Fox
8/23 RJ Perez
8/29 Robb Janov
8/30 Myles Chavez
M’tucci’s Twenty-Five - 6:30 Thursday & 7:30 Friday
8/16 Eryn Bent
8/22 Shane Wallin
8/23 Myles Chavez
8/29 Justin Nuñez
8/30 Chessa Peak
Thanks for reading. See you next Friday. Ciao!
