Aged Italian Cheese

Cheese is an ancient food, possibly originating in Egypt and brought back to Italy by visitors (soldiers?) around 6,000 years ago. The center for cheese making was Rome, with many artisans experimenting with cheese made from sheep, goats and cows. The Roman artisans were credited with developing the techniques for aging and preserving cheese. While there are many cheeses made throughout Italy with familiar names like provolone, mozzarella, fontina, asiago and gorgonzola, today we focus on the three aged hard cheeses that are most important to our dishes at all three M’tucci’s locations: Grana Padano, Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

These cheeses are only similar in the sense that they are made of only milk and rennet, and aged for a minimum amount of time: Parmigiano for 18 months (we buy only 24-month old parmesan), Grana for nine months and Pecorino for at least five months. Each is made in a different region of Italy and has a different flavor profile.

market.083.jpg

Grana Padano - is similar to Parmigiano in flavor and is made from cow’s milk in the Po River Valley of northeastern Italy. All of the pastas and pizzas at M’tucci’s Italian Market & Pizzeria are made with Grana. “We like it because it has a bright, nutty flavor, akin to the best parmesan, but it also has little salt crystals that impart awesome bursts of flavor onto any dish,” said Chef/Partner Shawn Cronin. It is not quite as salty as Parmigiano and it is usually cheaper. I normally buy Grana for grating over pasta or making pesto.

Parmigiano-Reggiano - this cheese comes from partly-skimmed milk from pasture grazed cows in the Emilia Romagna region surrounding Bologna, Parma and Pisa. It is aged a minimum of 18 months in the form of a wheel which usually weighs around 80 pounds. We serve Parmagiano-Reggiano on our charcuterie boards at all three locations. I like to use a vegetable peeler to shave curls of it on my salads. When the wedge is finished, I keep the rinds in the freezer in a baggie and add them to minestrone or pasta e fagioli soup while it cooks. As a grated cheese over pasta, it usually pairs better with butter-based sauces. One notable exception is the use of it in pesto sauce, which is made with olive oil

Pecorino Romano - pecora means sheep in Italian and, when aged, this sheep’s milk cheese is distinctive. It has a bright, tangy, salty flavor that the late cookbook author, Marcella Hazan, says is perfect for stronger flavored pasta sauces containing broccoli, rapini, or those that are made with olive oil. Although it originated in the area around Rome, Pecorinos are also made in Tuscany and Sardinia and can be found as a young cheese, as well as one aged for grating.

Always look for the imprint of the cheese’s name on the rind. If there is no imprint, it’s not authentic. Usually, it’s best to buy as much as you think you will use in 2-3 weeks. Never grate an aged cheese ahead of time (they can dry out and lose their flavor). They are best stored wrapped in wax paper, then wrapped with foil or placed in a baggie in the refrigerator.

People who are lactose intolerant can digest sheep’s milk cheeses, since the lactose is set free in the whey.

I like the flavor of Pecorino and always combine some of it with Parmigiano when I make pesto. Our chef’s at M’tucci’s Italian and M’tucci’s Moderno use it grated or in ribbons on our pastas and pizzas.

lavarock.051.JPG

Weekend Specials

M’tucci’s Italian

24 oz Hand Cut Bone-In NY Strip: Crispy Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Balsamic Reduction $33

Pan-Seared Branzino - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Artichokes, Sautéed Arugula, Lemon Caper Sauce $27

M’tucci’s Braised Sackett Farm Pork Shank Ricotta filled Ravioli: , Sautéed Artichokes, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Caramelized Onion, Roasted Orange Fennel Cream Sauce garnished with Pickled Fennel $23

Sunday Only: Half Rack of Smoked Baby Back Ribs, Salt Water Potatoes, House Made Cole Slaw and House BBQ Sauce for $18

M’tucci’s Moderno

12 oz. Certified Black Angus Rib Eye: Crispy Saltwater Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Salsa Verde $27

Pan-Seared Fresh Jumbo Diver Sea Scallops: Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Arugula, Roasted Artichokes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce, Prosciutto Powder $36

Sackett Farm Pork Picatta: Spaghettini, Arugula, Caper, Diced Tomatoes, Feta Cheese, Lemon Butter Sauce $19

M’tucci’s Twenty-Five

8 oz. Pan-Seared Alaskan Halibut: Seared Artichokes, Grilled Escarole, Garlic Whipped Potatoes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $24

Toasted House Made Rigatoni with Sun-Dried Tomatoe, Spinach, Cold Smoked Beef Tips, Pecorino Cream Sauce Garnished with Gorgonzola $19

Gelato: Stracciatella

Sorbetto: Cherry Limoncello


Thanks for reading. See you next Friday. Ciao!

Mozzarella & Burrata

 As you may have noticed, the grocery stores and the farmers markets are loaded with fresh tomatoes of all sizes, shapes and colors: small Lemon Pears, round Lemon Boys, bright red Super Sweet 100s and pink Brandywines. That’s a good thing for me, since the hot, dry summer has slowed my garden tomato production of those varieties for now. I hope it’s a good thing for you, as well.

I love dressing slices of large tomatoes or a bowl of halved cherry tomatoes with a handful of fresh basil, good extra-virgin olive oil (EVOO) and a small drizzle of an aged balsamic vinegar. Fresh tomatoes like these cry out for Insalata Caprese, the classic Italian pairing of fresh tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil.

Insalata Caprese at M’tucci’s Moderno

Insalata Caprese at M’tucci’s Moderno

Cheese is probably one of the oldest foods and, like many wonderful things to eat, was probably a happy accident. Nearly four thousand years ago the Chinese and people in the Middle East used animal stomachs to transport food. In the case of milk, the rennet in the stomach lining are a natural coagulant. Walk a few days with milk in your natural backpack and, mamma mia!, cheese. During the Middle Ages, the Romans turned cheese making into an art.

The best mozzarella in Italy comes from Puglia in the south, where it is made with water buffalo milk and called mozzarella di bufala. It is called fior di latte if cow’s milk is used. The fresh mozzarella and burrata in Puglia are not considered cheese (formaggio), but are called latticini (dairy product) and are customarily eaten fresh.

Mozzarella and burrata are also known as pasta filata, cheeses that are pulled and stretched and are meant to be consumed within a day of production. That’s why locally made mozzarella will be better than imported mozzarella - it’s all about the freshness.

At M’tucci’s Italian Café & Market, we make our own mozzarella and burrata a couple of times a week, both for menu items at our other restaurants and for retail sale in the Market. Like many things Italian, it’s not a complicated process, but it does rely on technique and quality ingredients. Kai, who is our main casaro (cheese maker), said one of the hardest parts is becoming accustomed to plunging lightly-gloved hands into the hot mixture of water and curds (nearly 190 degrees) and working the cheese to the right consistency. In addition to the importance of technique, the quality of the milk is extremely important.

While mozzarella is a soft, fresh cheese, it has a firm consistency. Burrata is related to mozzarella, but different. Burrata is made by pressing a ball of mozzarella into a flat piece, forming a pocket, then adding a mixture of cream and stracciatella (strips of mozzarella) to the pocket and sealing it. In a sense, it’s a ball of mozzarella with a creamy, cheesy center.

The next time you pick up some mozzarella and burrata from the Market, don’t forget to get a bottle of the 10-year-old Aceto Balsamico. This is a certified Modena IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) vinegar, sweet and slightly syrupy, that will enhance your Insalata Caprese and many other dishes. The IGP designation means it is a genuine food product made in a specific area according to strict guidelines.

market.181.jpg

Last night I made two salads by starting with a plate of mixed greens. I marinated some chopped cherry tomatoes with fresh basil, EVOO, sea salt and fresh ground pepper. After 30 minutes I spooned the tomatoes and their juice on top of the lettuce, then cut a ball of burrata over the top of each salad (half for me, half for my wife). A bit of the balsamic vinegar over the top was the finishing touch.

Another popular Southern Italian salad is Insalata di Pomodoro e burrata con pangrattato e basilco or Tomato and Burrata Salad with bread crumbs and Basil. It’s easy to make variations of this with stale or fresh bread for the pangrattato, or just simply add some of M’tucci’s Sourdough bread cut into chunks.


Recipe for 4

3/4 pound of heirloom tomatoes or any ripe, flavorful tomato (cored and cut into 1” chunks)

8-10 cherry tomatoes halved (yellow or red)

M’tucci’s Sourdough (2-3 slices), light toasted or slightly stale, cut into 1” cubes (optional to rub them with a bit of fresh garlic before chopping)

EVOO

1/3 - 1/2 C. Fresh Basil

1 ball of M’tucci’s Burrata

  1. Lightly salt tomatoes and place in a colander to drain about 30 minutes.

  2. If you don’t toast the bread, sauté it in a bit of EVOO for a crispy, olive oil flavor.

  3. Combine tomatoes, chopped basil and bread, then cut the burrata into chunks, taking care to reserve the creamy liquid.

  4. Add the burrata chunks and toss with a bit of EVOO and the creamy liquid. Dress the top with balsamic vinegar, salt & pepper to taste.

  5. Serve immediately

Chef Fred Gallegos’ Caprese Trio at M’tucci’s @ Lava Rock Brewing: burrata, fresh tomato, basil oil & 10-year old balsamic, smoked mozzarella, tomato jam & pesto, and mozzarella, smoke balsamic tomato and fresh basil.

Chef Fred Gallegos’ Caprese Trio at M’tucci’s @ Lava Rock Brewing: burrata, fresh tomato, basil oil & 10-year old balsamic, smoked mozzarella, tomato jam & pesto, and mozzarella, smoke balsamic tomato and fresh basil.


NEWS FROM M’TUCCI’S

LABOR DAY: All of our restaurants will be open normal hours on Labor Day, so if you’re around, we are too!

M’tucci’s @ Lava Rock Brewing Co.

HAPPY HOUR

Happy hour is back and better than ever. Lucky 7 Happy Hour features several menu items for $7, Monday - Friday 3:00 - 6:30. Pair the food with a beer for $10.50 or $11, depending on the beer. Not eating (why not?), then $1 off all pints.

lavarock.047.jpg

Tonight, Friday, August 23: Instant Karma Live on the patio at 7:00.

Food & Beer Pairing

We held our first successful food and beer pairing Wednesday night and we look forward to doing many more. These are a great opportunity for the kitchen to try new items that pair well with the dozen or so Lava Rock beers on tap. Here are a few photos from the evening.

M’tucci’s Italian

Weekend Specials

Cut of the Day - Porterhouse, Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus Balsamic Reduction

Pan-Seared Seafood - Ruby Red Trout, Creamy Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Arugula, Capers, Lemon Beurre Blanc

Ravioli - Red Wine Porcini Braised Duroc Pork Asiago, Wild Mushrooms Carmelized Onions, Shaved Parmesam, Micro Greens

Braise - Harris Ranch Beef Tips, Five Cheese Tortellini, Roasted Summer Squash, Red Bell Pepper, Haricot Vert, Light Lemon Cream Sauce, Arugula, Shaved Parmesan

AUGUST PRIX FIXE MENU

8/28/19

1st Course- Creamy Smoked Corn Chowder, Green Chile, Smoked House Bacon

2nd Course- Smoked BBQ Game Hen, Watermelon BBQ Sauce, Jalapeño Cornbread, House Slaw

3rd Course- Flourless Chocolate Cake, Coffee Ganache, Orange Coulis, Crispy Semolina

M’tucci’s Moderno

Weekend Specials

Spicy Penne and Salmon $20 - Italian olives, capers, serrano chiles, white wine, marinara

Rufino Rose, Italy, 8/32 - Notes of strawberry and hints of rose petal, white fruits and berries compliment the acidity and bubbles

Yellow Tail Tuna - $23 Buttery soft with a light sear

Michael David, Sauvignon Blanc, California, 9/36 - Refreshing notes of crisp apple, honeysuckle, and orange blossom, bright and slightly acidic.

Cut of the Day: 24 oz NY Strip - $32

Sasserogale, Sangiovese 7/28 - Notes of wild berries, cherries and a moderate spiciness

8:30 Friday: Julian Dossett Live in the bar

M’tucci’s Italian Café & Market

The new Café & Market continues to wow our guests, primarily because of the amazing pastries in our display case every day. Our new hours are 8:00am - 6:00pm. We carry the same great Italian imports, all of our artisan breads, and a wide variety of imported, domestic, and house made cheese and meat. There is an expanded selection of coffee and pastries. We’ll still have charcuterie boards to eat in or take out with wine and beer by the glass. Click here to see our new menu.

A M’tucci’s/Lava Rock “Beeramisu”: Lava Rock Coffee Pale Ale Soaked Lady Fingers, Chocolate Caramel Sauce & White Chocolate Mascarpone Cream.

A M’tucci’s/Lava Rock “Beeramisu”: Lava Rock Coffee Pale Ale Soaked Lady Fingers, Chocolate Caramel Sauce & White Chocolate Mascarpone Cream.

M’tucci’s Catering

Recently, we catered the New Mexico Make A Wish foundation fundraiser. The buffet included Charcuterie Boards, Shrimp Boards, Chianina Meatballs and Arancini. Give us a call for your next event, wedding reception or party! Click here to see our catering menu. 505.350.0019 or [email protected]

catering.007.jpg

ONGOING NEWS

M’TUCCI’S AROUND TOWN

Our market items can be purchased at a couple of locations in Albuquerque. We deliver our fresh bread every Tuesday and Friday to Silver Street Market at 2nd and Silver. Choose from Sourdough, Fennel Rye, Wheat, Baguette, Ciabatta, and Raisin Rosemary Focaccia.

Drinking at Bosque in Nob Hill? You can order a M’tucci’s Charcuterie Board while there.

SERVICE INDUSTRY NIGHT & DISCOUNTS

Area service industry workers can get a Service Industry card from us by showing proof of employment. With the card you receive 10% off your check every day and 20% off on Sundays from 6:00 - 9:00. Dine in only.

ONLINE ORDERING

Our food is available for delivery with Door Dash or for pick up. Pick up something for the weekend or on your way home from work. The links to ordering are on the Home page.

MTUCCI’S YOUTUBE CHANNEL

Videos about making cocktails and pasta and getting to know the M’tucci’s culture. Click here

See you next Friday - Ciao!

Italian Cheese

Cheese is an ancient food, possibly originating in Egypt and brought back to Italy by visitors (soldiers?) around 6,000 years ago. The center for cheese making was Rome, with many artisans experimenting with cheese made from sheep, goats and cows. The Roman artisans were credited with developing the techniques for aging and preserving cheese. While there are many cheeses made throughout Italy with familiar names like provolone, mozzarella, fontina, asiago and gorgonzola, today we focus on the three aged hard cheeses that are most important to our dishes at all three M’tucci’s locations: Grana Padano, Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Grana Padano, Pecorino Romano and Parmigiana - Reggiano

Grana Padano, Pecorino Romano and Parmigiana - Reggiano

These cheeses are only similar in the sense that they are made of only milk and rennet, and aged for a minimum amount of time: Parmigiano for 18 months (we buy only 24-month old parm), Grana for nine months and Pecorino for at least five months. Each is made in a different region of Italy and has a different flavor profile.

Grana Padano - is similar to Parmigiano in flavor and is made from cow’s milk in the Po River Valley of northeastern Italy. All of the pastas and pizzas at M’tucci’s Italian Market & Pizzeria are made with Grana. “We like it because it has a bright, nutty flavor, akin to the best parmesan, but it also has little salt crystals that impart awesome bursts of flavor onto any dish,” said Chef/Partner Shawn Cronin. It is not quite as salty as Parmigiano and it is usually cheaper. I normally buy Grana for grating over pasta or making pesto.

Parmigiano-Reggiano - this cheese comes from partly-skimmed milk from pasture grazed cows in the Emilia Romagna region surrounding Bologna, Parma and Pisa. It is aged a minimum of 18 months in the form of a wheel which usually weighs around 80 pounds. We serve Parmagiano-Reggiano on our charcuterie boards at all three locations. I like to use a vegetable peeler to shave curls of it on my salads. When the wedge is finished, I keep the rinds in the freezer in a baggie and add them to minestrone or pasta e fagioli soup while it cooks. As a grated cheese over pasta, it usually pairs better with butter-based sauces. One notable exception is the use of it in pesto sauce, which is made with olive oil

Pecorino Romano - pecora means sheep in Italian and, when aged, this sheep’s milk cheese is distinctive. It has a bright, tangy, salty flavor that the late cookbook author, Marcella Hazan, says is perfect for stronger flavored pasta sauces containing broccoli, rapini, or those that are made with olive oil. Although it originated in the area around Rome, Pecorinos are also made in Tuscany and Sardinia and can be found as a young cheese, as well as one aged for grating.

People who are lactose intolerant can digest sheep’s milk cheeses, since the lactose is set free in the whey.

I like the flavor of it and always combine some of it with Parmigiano when I make pesto. Our chef’s at M’tucci’s Italian and M’tucci’s Moderno use it grated or in ribbons on our pastas and pizzas.

Grana Padano, Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Grana Padano, Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Always look for the imprint of the cheese’s name on the rind. If there is no imprint, it’s not authentic. Usually, it’s best to buy as much as you think you will use in 2-3 weeks. Never grate an aged cheese ahead of time (they can dry out and lose their flavor). They are best stored wrapped in wax paper, then wrapped with foil or placed in a baggie in the refrigerator.

We sell all three cheeses at M’tucci’s Italian Market & Pizzeria.


NEWS FROM M’TUCCI’S

M’tucci’s Italian

Weekend Specials

Ravioli:

Lobster-Crab-Shrimp Ravioli, Lobster Cream Sauce, Pink Patagonian Shrimp, Local Micro Greens, Shaved Parmesan   

The Braise:

Harris Ranch Beef, Wild Mushroom, Local Spring Onion, Heirloom Tomato, Porcini Cream Sauce, Fussilloni Pasta

Pan Seared Fish:

Ruby Red Trout, Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Artichoke Heart, Sautéed Arugula, Lemon Butter Caper Sauce   

Cut of The Day:

24 oz Porter House, Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Grilled Lemon, Balsamic Reduction   

Dolce: 

Strawberry Cream Cake, Brown Sugar Crumble, Strawberry Jam, White Carmel 

Wine Features:

2017 Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc

2016 Murphy Goode Pinto Noir

7 Glass / 25 Bottle

Our new Summer Menu is online now. We have added a few new dishes and updated some of your favorites to reflect the fresh produce now available. You can view it online by clicking here.

Father’s Day, June 16 - Treat Dad to Brunch or an evening meal. Make reservations now.

M’tucci’s Moderno

Weekend Specials

Pork Tenderlion $21

The Pork equivalent of a beef tenderloin, it is a long, tender cut of Duroc Pork. Comes with Creamy Mascarpone Polenta, Grilled Asparagus, and a Dijon Lemon Butter Sauce. 

Recommended Wine Pairing:

Frescobaldi 'Remole' Super Tuscan, Italy  $7/$28

California Halibut  $26

This lean, white-fleshed fish has a delicate flavor and flakes easily.

Recommended Wine Pairing:

Tomaresca Chardonnay, Abruzzo, Italy $7/$28

Hand Cut Steak:

24 oz NY Strip $31

Recommended Wine Pairing: 

Bonanza Cabernet Sauvignon, California $9/$40

Friday, 8:30: Cali Shaw Live!

Our new Summer menu is coming soon.

M’tucci’s Italian Market & Pizzeria

May 29: Beer Week Tap Takeover with Steel Bender Brewyard - We’ll feature SkullBucket IPA, ETTu Brut IPA, Berliner Weisse and the Kolsch. Albuquerque Beer Week

May 29, 6:00 - 8:00: La Cumbre Westside Beer Pairing. Four Cicchettis (small bites) paired with 4 4oz beers for $20. No reservations or tickets, but there will be a limited supply. Watch our Instagram and Facebook page for the bites and beers.

Every Thursday - Sunday: M’tucci’s pizzas, sandwiches, and charcuterie boards are available La Cumbre Westside. Look for the M’tucci’s server and we bring the food to you!

ONGOING NEWS

M’TUCCI’S MONTHLY PHOTO CONTEST

Only week week left in the May Photo Contest, so enter soon and enter often. Post a photo from M’tucci’s with friends, food or beverages on your Facebook page or your Instagram feed and tag the photo #lovemtuccis. The winning photo is chosen from the three photos with the most likes.

M’TUCCI’S AROUND TOWN

Our market items can be purchased at a couple of locations. We deliver our fresh bread every Tuesday and Friday to Silver Street Market at 2nd and Silver. Choose from Sourdough, Fennel Rye, Wheat, Baguette, Ciabatta, Raisin Rosemary and Focaccia.

Drinking at Bosque in Nob Hill? You can order a M’tucci’s Charcuterie Board while there.

SERVICE INDUSTRY NIGHT & DISCOUNTS

Area service industry workers can get a Service Industry card from us by showing proof of employment. With the card you receive 10% off your check every day and 20% off on Sundays from 6:00 - 9:00. Dine in only.

M’TUCCI’S ITALIAN WEDNESDAY PRIX FIXE DINNERS

Details of our three course dinners paired with three wines will be published on Facebook and Instagram every Wednesday. 3 course + 3 wines for $25 per person, tax and gratuity not included.

ONLINE ORDERING

Our food is available for delivery with Door Dash or for pick up. Pick up something for the weekend or on your way home from work. The links to ordering are on the Home page.

MTUCCI’S YOUTUBE CHANNEL

Videos about making cocktails and pasta and getting to know the M’tucci’s culture. Click here

ALBUQUERQUE THE MAGAZINE - BEST OF THE CITY

We would appreciate your vote and support in the newest Best of the City poll. We feel pretty strongly that we are the best in these categories: Bartender, Bloody Mary, Craft Cocktails, Happy Hour, Appetizer Menu, Brunch, Chef, Dessert, Gourmet Pizza, Pizza and Wine List. We won last year for Waitstaff and Italian Restaurant and would love to keep our record intact. Click here to vote.

SUBSCRIBE NOW

Receive an email when La Gazzeta is published each Friday. Simply use the form at the bottom left of the page. We promise not to share your email, or bother you with unwanted promotions.

Ciao until next Friday!

Summer market in the Campo di’ Fiori in Rome.

Summer market in the Campo di’ Fiori in Rome.